The kind of wetsuit a surfskier generally wants for cold conditions is “surfing” style (or one made specifically for paddlers - a style that is becoming more common). Scuba suits (at least the thicker ones) are made of different quality neoprene than surfing suits. As neoprene compresses its ability to keep you warm gets reduced, as does its buoyancy properties. So Scuba suits are typically made of more dense neoprene (more material versus air bubbles) to resist compression better at depth. At the same time this denser material makes the suit less stretchy, restricting your movements more than you want in a surfski. There seems to be more overlap between the material and construction of Scuba and Surfing suits as time goes by, particularly in the lighter suits built by scuba wetsuit companies, but scuba wetsuit makers still tend to put more emphasis on stopping water wash through their suits often with tighter and more constrictive openings at the wrist, ankle, and neck. Carefully try out any suit made by a scuba suit maker to make sure it allows the amount of comfortable movement you need for your paddling..well, this advice is not bad for any suit you are considering, but if you are looking at a suit that is probably scuba style (used previously for diving, made by a manufacturer known primarily for scuba style suits,…), be forewarned.
“Buy Cheap, Buy Twice ”
is technically a foam, consisting of bubbles of air or nitrogen trapped in a layer of industrial rubber. Not entirely different from a sponge, but more dense. Most neoprene is made from petroleum, but it is also made from calcium carbonate (most common source - limestone) and limestone based neoprene is common in high end surfing and triathlon wetsuits. Neoprene from lime stone is generally warmer, more durable, softer and is more water impermeable - approx. 95% versus 60-70% for petroleum based neoprene.
can contribute to comfort, ease of getting on and off, and faster drying although some have been known to rub some folks the wrong way. If liners become more brittle over time (as some reportedly do), they may contribute to rubbing and chafing problems. It can be less problematic and less expensive to layer with your own separate lining layers that you have tried and trust.
Typically you get a measure of wetsuit thickness in millimeters. If this is more than one number like 3/2 or 4/3 - the first number is the thickness for the body trunk or some portion of the body core which is most critical for heat retention, the second number is the thickness for legs and arms. Three numbers (5/4/3 etc.) means Torso/Legs/Arms thickness. However wetsuits vary widely in terms of how much coverage the torso or core gets with the thickest material - make sure you get good torso coverage and not just your chest. Full body wetsuits on the warmer end of the warmth spectrum are sometimes called “steamers”. Also consider if you are a surfskier that you may want some more thickness in your legs where you get and stay wetter in rough conditions - wetsuit configurations may not serve this and you might want to look at some kind of layering with some additional liner leggings or stretchy shorts??….
Better suits go to more expense to make seams more waterproof (and therefore warmer with immersions) with blind-stitching, double blind stitching, tape, or liquid tape. Overlock and flatlock stitching are most commonly used in cheaper wetsuits and do not prevent water entry very well. Overlock stitching also often can create rubbing spots.
Body warmth can be retained by the insulation provided from wetsuits. However, that retention via reduced heat conduction can be overwhelmed by the heat loss that can occur from water that flushes through a wetsuit. If a wetsuit is too loose, or allows water to pass freely through holes or seams that are not sealed, far more body heat can be lost when you are in the water than can be saved via insulation.
Titanium and some other materials purportedly reflect heat when incorporated into wetsuits. The main material in wetsuits - neoprene, etc. with its dead air bubbles works as insulation that slows heat conduction away from your body. Theoretically radiant heat (infrared radiation) can be also be conserved by reflection back to the body (how mylar emergency blankets are intended to function). How much heat is protected in this manner (in comparison to the conductive heat conservation from wetsuit insulation) by a wetsuit with radiant reflective material is not completely clear to us currently - despite the claims of manufacturers. It is possible that this kind of material may function proportionately better in the air than when you are submerged and subject to greater conductive and convective heat loss - it won't help you that much in the water if your suit fits poorly or your seam sealing is ineffective (cheap or worn out) and you get a lot of water flush through.
To test if a seam is sealed, tightly hold the arm of a wetsuit at the elbow. Blow into the wrist like a balloon and trap the air with your other hand. If it remains inflated, it’s a sealed suit.
You may be able to give yourself a greater range of comfort with just one wetsuit through the addition of accessories, such as a separate wetsuit hat or hood, or a wetsuit vest that will add another couple of millimeters of insulation for your trunk so that a 3/2 wetsuit with a 2 mm vest added inside becomes a 5/2 for colder weather/water. The great advantage of a separate hat or hood is that you can put it on ( Conditions and skill allowing ) if you get colder or wind up swimming or take it off as you warm up from exertion. Wearing a hat or hood that covers your ears can interfere with hearing.
(pay particular attention to proper care - see below)
Wetsuit Maintenance Tips