Surfski Knowledge Base

surfskierx <brandon@…>
10/11/06 #1919

A great race is always a treat… but a great scene from start to
finish is what I always hope for, and the scene in Hawaii from my
arrival Thursday night to coming home Monday night was SPECTACULAR!
Our team was primarily made up of former He'e Nalu paddlers from
Marin County, CA's club of that name. But almost everyone had moved
away, switched clubs, or come from elsewhere – a band of paddling
renegades. Four of us had never done the Molokai before, but all
were accomplished watermen.

We gathered at the home of Mike Scales, our team captain, in Lanikai
(the hometown of last year's winning club) and were immediately made
to feel like family by Mike's wife and son, Karen and Striker.
(Striker's 2.5 yrs old and already going out OC-1 surfing with Dad!)

Friday morning after an early breakfast, the group of us who'd
arrived grabbed a pair of V-10's, an S1-X, and OC-1 and OC-2 and
headed out for some surf. We rounded a pair of islands called “The
Mokes” and settled in to a break made for skis and OCs. Waves with
up to 10' faces would stand up and just get pointy at their peaks,
but wouldn't break as we screamed down the faces for 1/4 mile rides.

Imagine 80 degree, crystal clear water, deep blue skies, a slight
cooling breeze and an endless supply of swells. We'd catch a few on
a ski, then play musical chairs and end up on an OC, then switch
back. We knew we had to conserve some energy for the race on Sunday,
but none of us could tear ourselves away. We kept riding waves,
laughing and paddling back out for 2 hours.

The highlight for me was at the end of the biggest wave and longest
ride I'd had, which brought me in maybe a bit too close to the rocks
off “Flat Island.” As I made the turn, a 2-foot sea turtle is on the
surface right next to me, big ol' grin on both our faces. Pure
Aloha!!!

We feasted for lunch then took an OC-6 out for an hour or so to get
in synch. Paddling out jumping over swells, with half this 45' boat
going airborne, was one of the funnest things I'd done. I couldn't
stop laughing! But even better was catching another of those big
swells on the way in, just screaming along. Man those things can
surf! As we're ripping along the face I couldn't help but wonder how
it would feel to try grabbing on to the gun'le at that speed to do
a “water change” during the race. Surely it would be suicidal! When
we got back to the beach, I asked our steersman, a local Hawaiian
named Pat Shea, if the change still happened at that speed?

“You better make it in!” he said. I gulped in fear.

Saturday morning we flew out to Molokai, where the canoes had
already been ferried out and a high-falutin' tent camp awaited us
racers. With the canoe rigged, we got registered, got our T-shirts,
and alternated between swimming, napping and feasting for the rest
of the day.

In total, 102 teams had entered, and had come from as far as Italy,
Japan, Fiji, Australia, New Zealand, Vancouver, etc. Most of the
team are Hawaiian clubs.

Most racers, I gathered, dream of bigger conditions, as in 16-20
foot swells. The forecast for our race was, by local
standards, “dead calm.” The trades wouldn't really kick in, and no
distant storms were going to really contribute major swells. I was
O.K. with this, and I thought it might actually favor our team of
strong, fit paddlers who weren't necessarily “gifted” at catching
every wave and bump for extra boosts across the channel. Just a
long, steady grind, like an ultra.

By 7 a.m. on Sunday morning, all 102 canoes were in the water, and
at 7:24 the starting flag was raised and they were off. What an
awesome sight! 102 canoes lined up with 102 support “fishing yachts”
standing by, not mention camera boats, officials' boats,
helicopters, etc. The energy was off the charts.

I was in the support boat for the first leg – a 40-minute stint
leading toward the southwest point of Molokai Island where crews are
allowed to make the first water changes. This early in the race,
canoes and support boats are still bunched up tight and having to
really watch out for each other. The pack is just breaking out from
the protection of Molokai and becoming exposed to whatever wind and
swell there'll be.

With our support boat pulling ahead of our canoe by 100 yards, the
three of us jumped in and lined up for the change. In the water,
we're splashing and yelling out our seat numbers to avoid any
confusion. Just as we touch the hull racing at us, the paddler's
we're replacing unzip their skirts, stow their paddles, and roll out
of their seats as we explode up over the side, grab paddles and zip
up. Before I can start paddling, though, Will, in front of me in
seat 3, tells me to bale water. I'd grabbed the cut-off bleach
bottle and was ejecting water as fast as I could for about 30
seconds when, Wham!!! we're upside down! Huli!

Within two minutes we're all on the south side of the canoe, paddles
in hand, laying over the hull and pulling it back upright. Back in,
seats 1 and 2, 5 and 6 are paddling and Will and myself in 3 and 4
are bailing. It took us probably 5 full minutes to get it empty, and
by then we had 95 out of the other 101 boats in front of us.

A note on the “dead calm” conditions: It's all relative. In the
Kaiwai Channel, which we were crossing, which has been called by
some “one of the roughest stretches of water in the Pacific” I'm
sure it was dead calm. Still, it was far and away bigger than
anything I'd ever paddled a small boat in. Chop and swells came
primarily from the north and east, but also from the 102 diesel
chugging motor yachts racing and slowing, spinning around to drop
off and retrieve paddlers. I can't say there was no pattern, there
was, but it was like 6 different major patterns at the same time.
Dave Kelly would say after the race that it was similar to last
year's SF surfski champs, only bigger, but not as downright chaotic
as the potato patch, if that gives you an idea. It was “dead calm”
enough to flip a 400 pound canoe with 6 200+ lbs. paddlers without
any of them having a clue what happened.

But after the huli, our race was on. There was nothing to do but
start picking off boats, and that we did. Our bow paddlers, Dave and
Mike G., changed every 20 minutes. The rest of us did a 40-minute
shift then got a 20-minute break. No one ever missed a change, and
we never huli'd again. The heat was stifling. All hydrating and
eating took place on the support boat, so by the end of a 40-minute
shift I felt ready to melt. The few minutes in the water on either
end of a change was like heaven – a moment to cool down and relax.
On the suppor boat, we'd put ice bags under our hats and melt the
ice in minutes, but it felt good.

A highlight for me came in the middle of the race. We'd picked off
maybe two dozen boats, but couldn't shake a crew of Hawaiian's just
to our north. For an hour, no matter who was in our boat, they hung
with us. Finally I asked someone who the hell they were, (most of my
teammates were up to speed on the “who's who” of OC racing).

“That's a kapuna team,” Mike said. “Average age in that boat is 75
years!” (It was like a “Team Old Guys” flashback from my 2002 Yukon
River Quest). “See that guy steering?” he asked. “That's Nappy
Napolean… he's raced EVERY SINGLE Molokai Hoe, fifty-five of them!”
I have to say, I was honored to be in the same part of the channel
with that living legend. After that long hour, we finally inched
away from them.

We kept motoring forward, setting our sights on a canoe in front us,
and eventually putting them behind. Several times we watched boats
next to us huli themselves. We weren't the only poor slobs falling
prey to the “dead calm.” We got a push from a swell now and again,
(our top GPS speed read 11.0) but we never got what felt like
a “ride” like those swells on Friday. Even with a 10 footer lifting
us up, and us all powering for it, there was never a sensation
of “surfing.” It was just too damn choppy.

After 5 hours and change, we rounded Diamand Head and the finish
line was in sight. Adrenalized, we kept up our assault on the field,
now racing in shallower waters, through packs of surfers gathered
just outside various breaks, past high-rise condo skyscrapers, past
tourists on Ocean Kayaks and sight-seeing outrigger rides. We'd made
our last change, and the sprint to the finish was on.

In the last 1.5 miles, we passed another 5 boats. With about a half
mile to go, I hear another support boat crew hollaring and whooping
it up for us, and my name shouted! It was False Creek's B-team boat,
with some of the same paddlers who'd taught me to do water changes
just a week before the race. Kamani Jane was on board, too. It was a
nice treat so far from home and at the end of long race.

Six hours and 4 minutes after the start, we crossed the finish line
in front of the heart of Waikiki. Following our huli and falling to
an early 96th place, we'd passed 31 boats and took 65th!. We hadn't
gotten passed by a single boat. No one on our team had any
expectations, and the spirit was no different than if we'd finished
top ten. We were all stoked beyond words.

As many predicted, the Tahitians took the overall win, as well as
2nd and 3rd. It was the “dead calm” conditions and the stifling
heat, of which the Tahitians are known to dominate. Unbelievably, a
new course record was set by the winning team, finishing in 4 hrs,
46 minutes. The second place team was nearly 15 minutes back. It was
an absolute slaughter.

I've known and dreamed about racing the Molokai Hoe for about 15
years, and I couldn't have scripted a more perfect experience. Back
at home now, ready for a bit of a rest after a long race season, my
thoughts are dominated by two ideas: The idea of returning to race
the Molokai Hoe with a local Bellingham OC-6 club, and the idea of
racing the small boat Molokai race in May across the same waters.
With this experience, the gate has been opened.

Larry Goolsby
10/12/06 #1921

Wow Brandon, what a great story. This brought back memories of when
Shaun and I were new paddlers and Twogood took us out to the “Mokes”.
Everyday that we were there we would surf near Flat Island until our
arms were ready to fall off. That would sure be a great place to
live…..
LG