Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- safety_leashes [2024/09/02 12:44]
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+++ safety_leashes [2025/10/07 11:52] (current)
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@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 <WRAP indent>
-The **Mockes in South Africa** train paddlers to **grab their boat** when they fall in and to rely on their leash as a back up only in case they miss or lose the grab (even grabbing your surfski can pose some risk - see [[:modifications#carry_handle|rigid carry handles]]). And if you are [[:stories:saturday_morning_gusts_over_50mph?s[]=*waterspout*#going_airborne|pulled airborne by a waterspout]] you may not get a chance to grab your surfski. In any case you absolutely should **make sure** that **your leash and its connections are in good shape and ****strong**. And you want to test your leash set up for minimal tendency to tangle up with you or anything else when you fall in. Staying with your surfski can have a number of potential benefits, particularly when swimming to safety is difficult or impossible. Even if you cannot successfully remount, if you can get your upper body onto your ski, in cold water you usually will be reducing your rate of heat loss. And for airborne search and rescue, a surfski is visible from far greater distances than your person floating in the water. </WRAP>
+The **Mockes in South Africa** train paddlers to **grab their boat** when they fall in and to rely on their leash as a back up only in case they miss or lose the grab (even grabbing your surfski can pose some risk - see [[:modifications#carry_handle|rigid carry handles]]). In the unlikely event you are [[:stories:saturday_morning_gusts_over_50mph?s[]=*waterspout*#going_airborne|pulled airborne by a waterspout]] you may not get a chance to grab your surfski. In any case you absolutely should **make sure** that **your leash and its connections are in good shape and ****strong**. And you want to test your leash set up for minimal tendency to tangle up with you or anything else when you fall in. Staying with your surfski can have a number of potential benefits, particularly when swimming to safety is difficult or impossible. Even if you cannot successfully remount, if you can get your upper body onto your ski, in cold water you usually will be reducing your rate of heat loss. And for airborne search and rescue, a surfski is visible from far greater distances than your person floating in the water. See [[https://surfski.info/latest-news/story/995/another-chance-at-life.html|Last Minute False Bay Rescue]]</WRAP>
+----
 ===== Tales of Leash Failure =====
 <WRAP indent>
-  * [[:stories:more_leash_tails|Leash failures 3/12/2007]]
+  * [[:stories:more_leash_tails|2 Leash failures & 1 Leash save 3/12/2007]]
   * [[https://www.surfski.info/forum/2-announcements/19688-more-leash-failures.html#35209|Broken leash end 2019]]
   * [[https://www.surfski.info/forum/2-announcements/19688-more-leash-failures.html?limitstart=20#36833|Another broken leash end 2020]]
@@ Line 34: / Line 37: @@
 <WRAP indent>
-Most of our wiki commentary on this page is based on the idea that leashes should be bombproof, particularly for open ocean or cold water use. But it should be noted that paddlers who regularly play in or traverse surf breaks and places where waves may break irregularly often say that they want their leashes to have a breaking point below where their bodies may start to be in danger or injured. Even though their standard practice is to unleash when going through surf breaks, very experienced surfskiers can still be surprised or caught off guard by breaking waves, or if they are racing they may shave things a little too close. We have seen some comments to this effect on surfski.info and other places and we will try to add more information along these lines as we can collect it. But if you are paddling in such areas, it would probably be very wise to consult with experienced and respected local paddlers about their preferred leash setups and best practices (how to avoid endangering yourself AND others in the water when you traverse the surf zone, etc.?) Also see the [[:safety_leashes#quick_releases|quick release]] section below (although if you are looking for a quick release as a fail safe after starting to get dragged by your surfski in surf, you probably want one that you can simply release without needing any extra strength as you might need to pull a carabiner or hook style release to clear what it is hooked to).
+Most of our wiki commentary on this page is based on the idea that leashes should be bombproof, particularly for open ocean or cold water use. But it should be noted that paddlers who regularly play in or traverse surf breaks and places where waves may break irregularly often say that they want their leashes to have a breaking point below where their bodies may start to be in danger or injured. Even though their standard practice is to unleash when going through surf breaks, very experienced surfskiers can still be surprised or caught off guard by breaking waves, or if they are racing they may shave things a little too close. We have seen some comments to this effect on surfski.info and other places and we will try to add more information along these lines as we can collect it. But if you are paddling in such areas, it would probably be very **wise to consult with experienced and respected local paddlers**  about their **preferred leash setups and best practices**  (how to avoid endangering yourself AND others in the water when you traverse the surf zone, etc.?) Also see the [[:safety_leashes#quick_releases|quick release]] section below (although if you are looking for a quick release as a fail safe after starting to get dragged by your surfski in surf, you probably want one that you can simply release without needing any extra strength as you might need to pull a carabiner or hook style release to clear what it is hooked to). Some paddlers who traverse surf breaks report managing much better with end connected leashes than center mounts. We do not know how big such breaks/waves are and clearly there is some limit in wave size beyond which you do not want to still be connected to your surfski in any fashion. Of course that size of breaking wave is typically one you want to stay away from if possible.
 </WRAP>
@@ Line 44: / Line 47: @@
 <WRAP indent>
-When we read about **leash failures**  and someone comments along the lines of "…**stuff happens**" we don't really care much for that take on such happenings. We believe that 99.999…% of leash failures occur due to **paddler neglect**  and/or **excessive "frugality"**, or **bad leash design**. That kind of stuff should really be far more rare. If you choose a well constructed leash and make sure it is in good shape, you should absolutely be able to **count on its not failing you**.
+When we read about **leash failures**  and someone comments along the lines of "…**stuff happens**" we don't really care much for that take on such happenings. We believe that 99.999…% of leash failures occur due to **paddler neglect**  and/or **excessive "frugality"**, or **bad leash design, all **of which **is avoidable**. That kind of stuff should really be far more rare. If you **choose a well constructed leash**  and you **keep it in good condition**, you should absolutely be able to **count on its not failing you**.
 That said, there are **no industry standards for leash strength, construction or durability**. We are convinced that **some types**  of leash construction **are much stronger and more reliable**  **than others**. And whatever style and brand of leash you decide to use, **they most likely will wear out and lose their reliability **over time unless they are exceptionally strong and are exposed to limited stress or environmental degradation. Leashes with less robust construction exposed to more stress, UV, etc. can more rapidly lose reliability.
   * **Regularly Check Leash Strength and Condition**.
-  * **Replace **any leash if it **has much Age, signs of Weakness, or any significant Wear**. How often you replace your leashes should depend on their quality of construction, how much wear accumulates, and how well you have cared for them. You will have to decide when to replace older leashes that appear to still be in good shape.
+  * **Replace **any leash if it **has much Age, signs of Weakness, or any significant Wear**. How often you replace your leashes should depend on their quality of construction, how much wear accumulates, how well you have cared for them. You will have to decide when to replace older leashes that appear to still be in good shape. If your paddling is on the riskier side (super cold, big conditions, etc.) replace earlier than the condition of your leash may indicate just to be on the safer side.
       * **Prioritize Security over Economy**, particularly if you engage in higher risk paddling.
       * **Disable Retired Leashes **if you don't throw them away. You may be able to re-purpose old leashes if practical, but make sure that they can't inadvertently be used again for safety.
@@ Line 55: / Line 58: @@
       * If you **connect your leash to**  your **foot straps**, **regularly check**  to make sure your **foot strap connections**  are strong and free of [[:repair#corrosion|excess corrosion]].
   * **Watch Out for Leashes with Multiple Segments**  because the connections between segments can be covered and hiding decay which can cause failure.
+      * Example of swivel failure at hidden point: [[:stories:more_leash_tails#broken_leash_swivel|swivel failure]]
       * A really **good idea**  is to remove connection covers if possible (shrink wrap that can easily be taken off?) so that inspection is easy at any time.
       * An **even better idea**  is to use a leash that is basically one continuous piece and is not divided into different components that are connected to each other. In our opinion, the advantage of simplicity and potential bombproof-ness of one continuous leash made from strong material far outweighs any perceived advantages of rotating swivels, etc.
@@ Line 72: / Line 76: @@
 </WRAP><WRAP indent>
+----
 ==== Velcro ====
@@ Line 77: / Line 83: @@
 <WRAP indent>
-There are numerous stories about incidents both disastrous and fortunately survived where velcro in a leash failed. **Velcro that is old and/or dirty can have significantly reduced holding strength**. Another problem with velcro is that it may not re-stick nearly as well once it is wet. Velcro that is in good shape and clean when stuck together **dry**  has a general reputation for reliably keeping its bond after getting wet. But **v//elcro//// that is already wet before fastening may have less holding strength//**  (//this needs some testing - how much does velcro age and condition factor in with reduced holding when connecting already wet velcro??//). If a leash gets tangled or for some other reason on the water has to have wet velcro unfastened, once the velcro is refastened the leash may be less secure than when it was first fastened for a paddle outing. But **one definite rule is don't rely on older, worn velcro**.
+----
+There are numerous stories about incidents of velcro in a leash failing - some with fortunate outcomes, others with disastrous results. **Velcro that is old and/or dirty can have significantly reduced holding strength**. Another problem with velcro is that it may not re-stick nearly as well once it is wet. Velcro that is in good shape and clean when stuck together **dry**  has a general reputation for reliably keeping its bond after getting wet. But **v//elcro//// that is already wet before fastening may have less holding strength//**  (//this needs some testing - how much does velcro age and condition factor in with reduced holding when connecting already wet velcro??//). If a leash gets tangled or for some other reason on the water has to have wet velcro unfastened, once the velcro is refastened the leash may be less secure than when it was first fastened for a paddle outing. But **one definite rule is don't rely on older, worn velcro**.
 <WRAP round tip 30%> \\ [[http://www.hunker.com/12228620/how-to-make-velcro-stick-again|Cleaning Velcro]] \\
 </WRAP>
-  * [[:stories:leash_velcro_2009|Leash Velcro Reliability And 40 mph Fronts 1/04/2009]]
+  * **Velcro Failures**
-  * [[:stories:mille_lacs_minnesota_death|Mille Lacs Minnesota Fatality - Failed Leash 10/09/2011]]
+      * [[:stories:leash_velcro_2009|Leash Velcro Reliability And 40 mph Fronts 1/04/2009]]
-  * [[:velcro_reliability_7_6_2020|Gorge Velcro Release 7/6/2020]]
+      * [[:stories:mille_lacs_minnesota_death|Mille Lacs Minnesota Fatality - Failed Leash 10/09/2011]]
+      * [[:velcro_reliability_7_6_2020|Gorge Velcro Release 7/6/2020]]
+      * [[:races:tawhiti_rahi_2024|2024 Velcro Failure Tawhiti Rahi Race New Zealand]]
 </WRAP>
+----
 ==== Solid Plastic Coil Sections ====
 <WRAP indent>
+----
 Apologies to the makers and users of leashes of this type where the coiled section is just a solid plastic, but **we do not like them**. We have seen numerous instances where the plastic failed. If you use this type of leash you might seriously consider replacements on a regular basis. The **biggest weakness**  seems to be **where the ends of the plastic are joined**  to something different. Often such junctions are covered by something like shrink wrap. If you simply cut that covering off, you will at least be able to monitor those connections for signs of fatigue. This [[http://www.surfski.info/forum/2-announcements/19688-more-leash-failures.html#35209|surfski.info thread]] has photos of several failed plastic leashes.
@@ Line 105: / Line 119: @@
 </WRAP>
+----
 ==== Quick Releases ====
 <WRAP indent>
+----
 There are reports on surfski web sites of various quick release mechanisms releasing on their own. It is not always clear whether the problem was not being clipped in properly to begin with or actual random release due to pressure or torque that came from something other than the paddler's hands. But **failure due to a design that leads to operator error is just as bad as outright failure of the mechanism**. So we strongly advise you to **consider using release mechanisms that are more robust**, like locking carabiners or belts with strong, reliable release buckles. Also, metal release clips and carabiner gates can become stiff over time (which can interfere with full closure), but a little WD40 and repeated open/close actions can eliminate such resistance.
@@ Line 140: / Line 158: @@
 Whatever type leash(es) you choose you have to have **thoroughly practiced**  using them, remounting with them, **before using them in conditions that are challenging**  for you and/or involve significant risk. Some problems may only fully express themselves in rough conditions. But reduce that likelihood with plenty of practice in calmer conditions and if and as soon as you discover new/greater problems in rougher conditions you need to immediately address them before your next outing. Is there **any tendency to tangle**  (tangling a leg leash around your legs is not unusual particularly in rough conditions and forceful upsets - but if you find such tangling too frequent or too difficult to extricate yourself from then you need to look at changing the leash style or length to fix the problem), or more importantly if you are using multiple leashes is there any significant tendency for them to become inter-tangled which is something you really want to avoid either by changing leash styles and/or lengths so they can co-exist without interference. Example: [[https://youtu.be/rSbYwIK46FM|youtube video of leg-wrap interference]] Note also in this video how much the mid-boat leg leash anchor keeping the surfski sideways pulls on the paddler and makes all operations more difficult in the water in this very strong wind. Cause to consider an end-anchored leash?
+----
 ==== Discussions ====
@@ Line 147: / Line 167: @@
       * [[:stories:should_we_have_been_out_there|Record Storm Recap, Leashes]]
   * [[https://www.surfski.info/forum/17-equipment/19401-why-not-a-waist-leash.html|Surfski.info waist belt discussion 2017]]
+  * …
+----
 ==== Leg ====
@@ Line 152: / Line 175: @@
 <WRAP indent>
-Leg leashes use a wrap that usually goes around your lower leg just below your knee, typically secured with velcro. The other end typically uses a **leash anchor**  built into the ski **under your legs or**  possibly **attaches to your foot straps**  (but see comments about [[:repair#corrosion|foot strap attachment corrosion]]),or sometimes surfskiers **attach them on the bow **- e.g. to a front handle - affording the same benefit of aligning the ski **with**  the wind during a [[:terminology#outrigger_terms|huli]] (as rear anchors described below in the waist leash section also cause skis to align). On many leashes this end of the leash may be velcro too. But it can also be something stronger, like a locking carabiner, or a sewn-in loop of spectra. In respect to wet velcro making weaker reconnections, leg leash designs that allow you to unhook from your leg wrap without disconnecting the velcro may be superior to those that require leg wrap velcro separation, but [[:safety_leashes#quick_releases|beware quick releases that can self-disconnect]].
+----
+Leg leashes use a wrap that usually goes around your lower leg just below your knee, typically secured with velcro. The other end typically uses a **leash anchor**  built into the ski **under your legs or**  possibly **attaches to your foot straps**  (but see comments about [[:repair#corrosion|foot strap attachment corrosion]]),or sometimes surfskiers **attach them on the bow **- e.g. to a front handle - affording the benefit of aligning the ski **with**  the wind during a [[:terminology#outrigger_terms|huli]] (as rear anchors described below in the waist leash section also cause skis to align). On many leashes this end of the leash may be velcro too. But it can also be something stronger, like a locking carabiner, or a sewn-in loop of spectra. In respect to wet velcro making weaker reconnections, leg leash designs that allow you to unhook from your leg wrap without disconnecting the velcro may be superior to those that require leg wrap velcro separation, but [[:safety_leashes#quick_releases|beware quick releases that can self-disconnect]].
   * [[https://imetalux.com/shop/metaleash-quick-release-paddling-leash|Meta non-velcro leg leash]] (do your own testing, but our impression is that these buckles are strong and do not disengage if pressure is applied to only one side of the buckle). Note, though, that this leash, as is, also includes one of the suspect quick release clips. But using that quick release clip is unnecessary and can easily be removed. You can replace that connection with a simple strong loop, and you don't really need another quick release in addition to the leg wrap buckle anyway, do you?
@@ Line 187: / Line 212: @@
 </WRAP>
+----
 ==== Waist ====
@@ Line 192: / Line 219: @@
 <WRAP indent>
-As an alternative to the leg leash, some assemble a **leash**  that attaches to a **belt**  around the paddler's waist **with a line**  that runs/attaches **behind them**. Some **attach**  to **existing or added**  mounting **holes or pads**  directly **behind**  their **seats**  while others **attach**  to a **line**  that stretches **between the stern**  handle **and the storage straps**  on the back deck, while **others**  just have a **long leash **that **connects**  near the** stern end**. The preference for an attachment running all the way to the stern is based at least in part on preferring a surfski to **line up parallel with the wind**  after a dump in big conditions in preparation for your remount. A sidewise remount from the upwind side works well in all conditions, given adequate remount technique and practice, although it is possible that the surfski may need to be turned or swum under in order for the paddler to get to the upwind side after a "huli"((See  [[:terminology#outrigger_terms|huli]])) . Having the **ski line up downwind**  after a fall can make it easier to turn the ski for an upwind mount without having the leash wrapped around the boat. It also **presents the narrowest aspect**  of the boat to the wind thus **decreasing the likely pull**  of the boat against the paddler and their boat leash. (For what it is worth, we have heard of at least one rare incident where a built-in leash anchor failed and was pulled loose by a leg leash in a particularly strong huli.) The back end of these stern lines is typically placed behind the rudder so that a rolling surfski is less likely to catch and wrap your leash with the rudder. One potential limitation with this leash setup is interfence between it and a rear deck mounted camera. We also have reports of hulis with a rear leash catching and popping out rear drainage plugs on Kai Wa'a surfskis. So **in general, rear leashes**  will **work better with clean rear decks**.
+----
+As an alternative to the leg leash, some assemble a **leash**  that attaches to a **belt**  around the paddler's waist **with a line**  that runs/attaches **behind them**. Some **attach**  to **existing or added**  mounting **holes or pads**  directly **behind**  their **seats**  while others **attach**  to a **line**  that stretches **between the stern**  handle **and the storage straps**  on the back deck, while **others**  just have a **long leash **that **connects**  near the** stern end**. The preference for an attachment running all the way to the stern is based at least in part on preferring a surfski to **line up parallel with the wind**  after a dump in big conditions in preparation for your remount. A side wise remount from the upwind side works well in all conditions, given adequate remount technique and practice, although it is possible that the surfski may need to be turned or swum under in order for the paddler to get to the upwind side after a "huli"((See  [[:terminology#outrigger_terms|huli]])) . Having the **ski line up downwind**  after a fall can make it easier to turn the ski for an upwind mount without having the leash wrapped around the boat. It also **presents the narrowest aspect**  of the boat to the wind thus **greatly ****decreasing the pull**  of the boat against the paddler and their boat leash. (For what it is worth, we have heard of at least one rare incident where a built-in leash anchor failed and was pulled loose by a center anchored leg leash in a particularly strong huli.) The back end of these stern lines is typically placed behind the rudder so that a rolling surfski is less likely to catch and wrap your leash with the rudder.
+  * **Limitations on Rear Leashes**
+      * **In general, rear leashes**  will **work better with clean rear decks**.
+        * One potential limitation with a rear leash setup is interference between it and a** rear deck mounted camera**.
+        * We also have reports of hulis with a rear leash catching and** popping out rear drainage plugs**  on** Kai Wa'a surfskis**.
+          * One solution to the rear leash/rear drain plug issue is to add a front hole as this paddler has done - [[https://surfski.info/forum/19-boats/20559-kai-waa-vega-arc.html?start=20#41218|surfski.info post with photos]]
+      * …
 [[https://youtu.be/BaSHLdOISl8|SUP oriented 2022 video]] on waist belts and quick release leash options
@@ Line 203: / Line 239: @@
 {{:equipment:safety:2linerearleashrun.png?direct&300x400}}
+The NSI stick on loop pads that provide the rear end ties are quite strong if installed on a surfski deck that was clean and dry, and given the reduced pull that such a setup is subject to during upsets, we believe they are quite adequate. To our knowledge none of the paddlers in the Gorge and Bellingham Bay who use this setup have ever had a failure.
 </WRAP>
@@ Line 208: / Line 246: @@
 ----
-If you employ a waist belt for your leash/body connection, **make sure**  you have a **low enough profile buckle**  so that it **does not interfere with remounts**  **or catch and come open**  during remounts. Some folks also remove the balls sometimes attached to such buckles - to minimize [[:waist_buckle_opening_2_2020|inadvertant opening]] if caught on something - beveling the buckle lever edge corners also can reduce the likelihood of catching and opening during a remount. **Side squeeze buckles**  like the one on the Meta belt seem **less likely**  to experience a **catching release**, but **judge, test,**  and **make your own decision**. Some waist belt users recommend keeping the belt somewhat loose, so that if you rotate in the water the belt can slip instead of causing your leash to wrap around you.
+If you employ a waist belt for your leash/body connection, **make sure**  you have a **low enough profile buckle**  so that it **does not interfere with remounts**  **or catch and come open**  during remounts. Some folks also remove the balls sometimes attached to such buckles - to minimize [[:waist_buckle_opening_2_2020|inadvertent opening]] if caught on something - beveling the buckle lever edge corners also can reduce the likelihood of catching and opening during a remount. **Side squeeze buckles**  like the one on the Meta belt seem **less likely**  to experience a **catching release**, but **judge, test,**  and **make your own decision**. Some waist belt users recommend keeping the belt somewhat loose, so that if you rotate in the water the belt can slip instead of causing your leash to wrap around you.
-<font inherit/inherit;;#c0392b;;inherit>Note also</font> that many surfskis do not come with any mounting points behind the seat or if mounting points are there all they have is bungie tied to those points. When renting or borrowing a surfski you may need an alternative leg leash when such a surfski has no adequate anchor behind the seat for a waist leash.
+<font inherit/inherit;;#c0392b;;inherit>Note also</font> that many surfskis do not come with any mounting points behind the seat or if mounting points are there all they have is bungee tied to those points. When renting or borrowing a surfski you may need an alternative leg leash when such a surfski has no adequate anchor behind the seat for a waist leash.
+<WRAP indent>
+**Waist Leash Examples DIY & Commercial**
   * [[https://www.surfski.info/forum/17-equipment/18946-can-anyone-recommend-a-leash-for-a-ski.html#28795|Example Waist Belt and Leash]] on surfski.info - this is basically the Northshore kitesurfing leash (see below) with a strip of bungee for holding a paddle sewn into it.
   * [[https://foilboardcompany.com/product/wing-waist-leash/|Foil Board Wing Waist Leash]] Looks versatile, comfortable (no reviews). Foil Board says the waist belt can be used with a board leash so it should be plenty strong (specs definitely sound so). The wing leash component description makes it sound strong enough also (length??), but we need to get a closer look. Reviews anyone? We've only seen these available from UK shops so shipping outside of the UK is expensive.
   * [[https://imetalux.com/shop/metaleash-belt|Meta Waist Belt with side squeeze buckle release]]
+  * [[https://paddle-lab.com/nelo-surfski-leash.html|Nelo Surfski Leash]] Magnetic (we don't have any experience or reviews of this leash, how strong is the stretch/bungee part and does it have a stronger inner core?)
+      * [[https://youtu.be/J_cuz4Mb8Mw|video with Oscar]]
   * [[https://www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=533&idcategory=86|Northshore Quick Release Belt]] w/ Leash - these are sold with 4' and 6' leashes
   * [[https://northwater.com/collections/rescue-belt-tow-systems/products/eds-belt|Northwater Quick Release Safety Belt]]
-  * [[http://www.fitnesslifestyle.com.au/safety-products/xm-surfmore/pages/calf-and-body-leash.html|Power Clip]] - review? there is velcro in the waist belt closure and in the leg wrap
+  * [[https://mustangsurvival.com/|MTI waist belt ]] Do a search for "SUP Leash Release Belt" or do a web search for "MTI SUP Leash Release Belt" - they are sold in multiple places.
-  * [[https://www.mtiadventurewear.com/jackets/accessories/weblrb1-sup-leash-release-belt|MTI waist belt]]
 </WRAP>
+----
 ==== PFD ====
 <WRAP indent>
+----
 Another **non-leg attachment alternative**  is to **attach**  your leash **to your life jacket**. With this setup, make sure it is reliably sturdy. It can have more than one point of attachment for security. Or you can sew a particularly strong attachment point to your pfd for this purpose.
@@ Line 243: / Line 289: @@
 </WRAP></WRAP></WRAP>
+----
 ==== Paddle ====
 <WRAP indent>
+----
 A paddle leash can prevent you from losing your paddle when you flip, accidentally lose your grip on your paddle, or want to let go of your paddle to free up you hands. They are easy to make with a piece of cord and a carabiner. Simply tie a loop in one end for the paddle and tie the other end to the carabiner. Attach the carabiner to your pfd. Make this leash long enough to not interfere with your paddle stroke, but no longer. Some paddlers wear a very short leash from wrist to paddle. << NOTE >> If you use a wrist leash you may be limiting which side you can easily remount on ([[:remount#remounts_and_wrist_leashes|See remounts]]) unless you have a quick release on the wrist leash (which will diminish your paddle security during a remount) - (the most common remount techniques involve holding the paddle with only one hand). Many paddlers only employ a paddle leash in higher winds when the wind significantly increases its ability to take a paddle far away in a moment of inattention, distraction, or flipped surfski. Carefully gauge how much risk you would be in if you lose your paddle. Some conditions may allow [[:self_rescue#prone_paddling_on_surfski|prone paddling]] if you still have your ski, while big enough conditions may make any kind of headway without a paddle difficult or impossible. Having a paddle leash also makes it much easier or just possible to use both hands temporarily for an occasional circumstance when needed such as adjusting/fixing something on your ski, or needing to call with a phone or radio.
@@ Line 262: / Line 312: @@
 </WRAP></WRAP></WRAP></WRAP></WRAP>
+----
 ==== Combination Paddle/Leash Setup ====
 <WRAP indent>
+----
 [[https://tcsurfski.com/2013/09/23/surfski-leash/|Billy B's Leash System]] this is non-elastic leash system that secures the paddler and paddle to their surfski. It is easy to inspect for any wear or damage and employs no velcro.

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