User Tools

Site Tools


safety_leashes

Leashes

zhandlerleash.jpeg

Disintegrated Coiled Solid Plastic Leash Photo: Zach Handler in surfski.info discussion


Intro

The Mockes in South Africa train paddlers to grab their boat when they fall in and to rely on their leash as a back up only in case they miss or lose the grab (even grabbing your surfski can pose some risk - see rigid carry handles). In the unlikely event you are pulled airborne by a waterspout you may not get a chance to grab your surfski. In any case you absolutely should make sure that your leash and its connections are in good shape and strong. And you want to test your leash set up for minimal tendency to tangle up with you or anything else when you fall in. Staying with your surfski can have a number of potential benefits, particularly when swimming to safety is difficult or impossible. Even if you cannot successfully remount, if you can get your upper body onto your ski, in cold water you usually will be reducing your rate of heat loss. And for airborne search and rescue, a surfski is visible from far greater distances than your person floating in the water. See Last Minute False Bay Rescue

Tales of Leash Failure

When Might You Want Your Leash to Fail?

Most of our wiki commentary on this page is based on the idea that leashes should be bombproof, particularly for open ocean or cold water use. But it should be noted that paddlers who regularly play in or traverse surf breaks and places where waves may break irregularly often say that they want their leashes to have a breaking point below where their bodies may start to be in danger or injured. Even though their standard practice is to unleash when going through surf breaks, very experienced surfskiers can still be surprised or caught off guard by breaking waves, or if they are racing they may shave things a little too close. We have seen some comments to this effect on surfski.info and other places and we will try to add more information along these lines as we can collect it. But if you are paddling in such areas, it would probably be very wise to consult with experienced and respected local paddlers about their preferred leash setups and best practices (how to avoid endangering yourself AND others in the water when you traverse the surf zone, etc.?) Also see the quick release section below (although if you are looking for a quick release as a fail safe after starting to get dragged by your surfski in surf, you probably want one that you can simply release without needing any extra strength as you might need to pull a carabiner or hook style release to clear what it is hooked to). Some paddlers who traverse surf breaks report managing much better with end connected leashes than center mounts. We do not know how big such breaks/waves are and clearly there is some limit in wave size beyond which you do not want to still be connected to your surfski in any fashion. Of course that size of breaking wave is typically one you want to stay away from if possible.


Maintenance and Construction

When we read about leash failures and someone comments along the lines of “…stuff happens” we don't really care much for that take on such happenings. We believe that 99.999…% of leash failures occur due to paddler neglect and/or excessive “frugality”, or bad leash design, all of which is avoidable. That kind of stuff should really be far more rare. If you choose a well constructed leash and you keep it good condition, you should absolutely be able to count on its not failing you.

That said, there are no industry standards for leash strength, construction or durability. We are convinced that some types of leash construction are much stronger and more reliable than others. And whatever style and brand of leash you decide to use, they most likely will wear out and lose their reliability over time unless they are exceptionally strong and are exposed to limited stress or environmental degradation. Leashes with less robust construction exposed to more stress, UV, etc. can more rapidly lose reliability.

  • Regularly Check Leash Strength and Condition.
  • Replace any leash if it has much Age, signs of Weakness, or any significant Wear. How often you replace your leashes should depend on their quality of construction, how much wear accumulates, and how well you have cared for them. You will have to decide when to replace older leashes that appear to still be in good shape.
    • Prioritize Security over Economy, particularly if you engage in higher risk paddling.
    • Disable Retired Leashes if you don't throw them away. You may be able to re-purpose old leashes if practical, but make sure that they can't inadvertently be used again for safety.
  • Regularly Test Related Safety Components such as loops that may stay connected at your surfski leash anchor and that you connect your leash to. And Replace Due to Age, Weakness, or Wear.
    • If you connect your leash to your foot straps, regularly check to make sure your foot strap connections are strong and free of excess corrosion.
  • Watch Out for Leashes with Multiple Segments because the connections between segments can be covered and hiding decay which can cause failure.
    • A really good idea is to remove connection covers if possible (shrink wrap that can easily be taken off?) so that inspection is easy at any time.
    • An even better idea is to use a leash that is basically one continuous piece and is not divided into different components that are connected to each other. In our opinion, the advantage of simplicity and potential bombproof-ness of one continuous leash made from strong material far outweighs any perceived advantages of rotating swivels, etc.
    • Here is a leash that is easier to inspect. Meta Coil with clear sleeves for easy inspection and no suspect hidden metal connecting parts. They also sew thread (visible for inspection) into the end coil loops to hold and reinforce their loops and they have dyneema cores within their rubber coiled sections.

imeta_clearsleeve.jpg

Click on photo to enlarge

Velcro

There are numerous stories about incidents both disastrous and fortunately survived where velcro in a leash failed. Velcro that is old and/or dirty can have significantly reduced holding strength. Another problem with velcro is that it may not re-stick nearly as well once it is wet. Velcro that is in good shape and clean when stuck together dry has a general reputation for reliably keeping its bond after getting wet. But velcro that is already wet before fastening may have less holding strength (this needs some testing - how much does velcro age and condition factor in with reduced holding when connecting already wet velcro??). If a leash gets tangled or for some other reason on the water has to have wet velcro unfastened, once the velcro is refastened the leash may be less secure than when it was first fastened for a paddle outing. But one definite rule is don't rely on older, worn velcro.

Solid Plastic Coil Sections

Apologies to the makers and users of leashes of this type where the coiled section is just a solid plastic, but we do not like them. We have seen numerous instances where the plastic failed. If you use this type of leash you might seriously consider replacements on a regular basis. The biggest weakness seems to be where the ends of the plastic are joined to something different. Often such junctions are covered by something like shrink wrap. If you simply cut that covering off, you will at least be able to monitor those connections for signs of fatigue. This surfski.info thread has photos of several failed plastic leashes.

Failed Plastic in Leash

failedleash.jpeg

Photo: Nick Kelly (description of failure) - click to enlarge

Quick Releases

There are reports on surfski web sites of various quick release mechanisms releasing on their own. It is not always clear whether the problem was not being clipped in properly to begin with or actual random release due to pressure or torque that came from something other than the paddler's hands. But failure due to a design that leads to operator error is just as bad as outright failure of the mechanism. So we strongly advise you to consider using release mechanisms that are more robust, like locking carabiners or belts with strong, reliable release buckles. Also, metal release clips and carabiner gates can become stiff over time (which can interfere with full closure), but a little WD40 and repeated open/close actions can eliminate such resistance.

  • Facebook discussion about quick release failure during a paddle (includes link to newer Vaikobi leash design which reportedly has a better quick release not subject to “back release”)
  • Facebook video showing how easily one quick release design can release on its own: Too Quick Release

FlickOff Quick Release - we do not have experience or reviews of this waist leash. But if you paddle in conditions where you may need a very simple, very quick release of your leash, you may want to investigate these leashes.


Some Paddlers Use Slip Bowline for Quick Release (this is NOT the same as tying a bowline from a slip knot). Probably better not to use this unless you are confident you know exactly how to tie and use it correctly.



Leash Types

Whatever type leash(es) you choose you have to have thoroughly practiced using them, remounting with them, before using them in conditions that are challenging for you and/or involve significant risk. Some problems may only fully express themselves in rough conditions. But reduce that likelihood with plenty of practice in calmer conditions and if and as soon as you discover new/greater problems in rougher conditions you need to immediately address them before your next outing. Is there any tendency to tangle (tangling a leg leash around your legs is not unusual particularly in rough conditions and forceful upsets - but if you find such tangling too frequent or too difficult to extricate yourself from then you need to look at changing the leash style or length to fix the problem), or more importantly if you are using multiple leashes is there any significant tendency for them to become inter-tangled which is something you really want to avoid either by changing leash styles and/or lengths so they can co-exist without interference. Example: youtube video of leg-wrap interference Note also in this video how much the mid-boat leg leash anchor keeping the surfski sideways pulls on the paddler and makes all operations more difficult in the water in this very strong wind. Cause to consider an end-anchored leash?

Discussions

Leg

Leg leashes use a wrap that usually goes around your lower leg just below your knee, typically secured with velcro. The other end typically uses a leash anchor built into the ski under your legs or possibly attaches to your foot straps (but see comments about foot strap attachment corrosion),or sometimes surfskiers attach them on the bow - e.g. to a front handle - affording the same benefit of aligning the ski with the wind during a huli (as rear anchors described below in the waist leash section also cause skis to align). On many leashes this end of the leash may be velcro too. But it can also be something stronger, like a locking carabiner, or a sewn-in loop of spectra. In respect to wet velcro making weaker reconnections, leg leash designs that allow you to unhook from your leg wrap without disconnecting the velcro may be superior to those that require leg wrap velcro separation, but beware quick releases that can self-disconnect.

  • Meta non-velcro leg leash (do your own testing, but our impression is that these buckles are strong and do not disengage if pressure is applied to only one side of the buckle). Note, though, that this leash, as is, also includes one of the suspect quick release clips. But using that quick release clip is unnecessary and can easily be removed. You can replace that connection with a simple strong loop, and you don't really need another quick release in addition to the leg wrap buckle anyway, do you?

imeta_nonvelcro.jpg

Meta Leg Leash


oceanpaddler-saftey-leg-leash.jpg

Leg Leash with Quick Release that may be subject to back release


  • Vaikobi leg cuff leash with another quick release carabiner - reportedly not subject to back release (do your own testing!)

vaikobi_quik_rel.jpg

Newer leg leash (2023) with quick release carabiner that is reportedly less subject to back release


  • NorthShore sells the leash part (4' and (5' or 6'?)) of their kitesurfing waist leash (no plastic, no metal, just strong tubular webbing/bungee with spectra running through the bungee and sewn into loops at the ends). You would then have the main part of a leg leash that will not break or have any unseen weaknesses. You will just have to add a leg cuff. (okay, you can't see all of the end loop internal sewing, but these things are battle tested by kite surfers and we are unaware of any failures, ever. If you take bad care of them, then yes, you should replace them on a schedule that weighs their condition. Repurpose the old leash for something less critical. And we recommend replacing all leashes eventually simply due to age, or any signs of weakness or significant wear).

nsi_spectraleash.jpg

Waist

As an alternative to the leg leash, some assemble a leash that attaches to a belt around the paddler's waist with a line that runs/attaches behind them. Some attach to existing or added mounting holes or pads directly behind their seats while others attach to a line that stretches between the stern handle and the storage straps on the back deck, while others just have a long leash that connects near the stern end. The preference for an attachment running all the way to the stern is based at least in part on preferring a surfski to line up parallel with the wind after a dump in big conditions in preparation for your remount. A sidewise remount from the upwind side works well in all conditions, given adequate remount technique and practice, although it is possible that the surfski may need to be turned or swum under in order for the paddler to get to the upwind side after a “huli”1) . Having the ski line up downwind after a fall can make it easier to turn the ski for an upwind mount without having the leash wrapped around the boat. It also presents the narrowest aspect of the boat to the wind thus decreasing the likely pull of the boat against the paddler and their boat leash. (For what it is worth, we have heard of at least one rare incident where a built-in leash anchor failed and was pulled loose by a leg leash in a particularly strong huli.) The back end of these stern lines is typically placed behind the rudder so that a rolling surfski is less likely to catch and wrap your leash with the rudder.

  • Limitations on Rear Leashes
    • In general, rear leashes will work better with clean rear decks.
    • One potential limitation with a rear leash setup is interference between it and a rear deck mounted camera.
    • We also have reports of hulis with a rear leash catching and popping out rear drainage plugs on Kai Wa'a surfskis.

SUP oriented 2022 video on waist belts and quick release leash options


One Rear Leash Mount Configuration - dual lines with leash ring that can slide down the lines


If you employ a waist belt for your leash/body connection, make sure you have a low enough profile buckle so that it does not interfere with remounts or catch and come open during remounts. Some folks also remove the balls sometimes attached to such buckles - to minimize inadvertant opening if caught on something - beveling the buckle lever edge corners also can reduce the likelihood of catching and opening during a remount. Side squeeze buckles like the one on the Meta belt seem less likely to experience a catching release, but judge, test, and make your own decision. Some waist belt users recommend keeping the belt somewhat loose, so that if you rotate in the water the belt can slip instead of causing your leash to wrap around you.

Note also that many surfskis do not come with any mounting points behind the seat or if mounting points are there all they have is bungie tied to those points. When renting or borrowing a surfski you may need an alternative leg leash when such a surfski has no adequate anchor behind the seat for a waist leash.

PFD

Another non-leg attachment alternative is to attach your leash to your life jacket. With this setup, make sure it is reliably sturdy. It can have more than one point of attachment for security. Or you can sew a particularly strong attachment point to your pfd for this purpose.

  • SeaArc website relatively new leash systems (circa 2023-24?) that can combine a vest that goes inside of your PFD with multiple points of attachment. Their leashes can also be attached to your person in the other typical ways (you provide the leg or waist belt instead of using their PFD vest). Although these leashes look quite robust and well engineered we do not have a lot of feedback currently on them.

Richard Forbes SeaArc Video


Paddle

A paddle leash can prevent you from losing your paddle when you flip, accidentally lose your grip on your paddle, or want to let go of your paddle to free up you hands. They are easy to make with a piece of cord and a carabiner. Simply tie a loop in one end for the paddle and tie the other end to the carabiner. Attach the carabiner to your pfd. Make this leash long enough to not interfere with your paddle stroke, but no longer. Some paddlers wear a very short leash from wrist to paddle. « NOTE » If you use a wrist leash you may be limiting which side you can easily remount on (See remounts) unless you have a quick release on the wrist leash (which will diminish your paddle security during a remount) - (the most common remount techniques involve holding the paddle with only one hand). Many paddlers only employ a paddle leash in higher winds when the wind significantly increases its ability to take a paddle far away in a moment of inattention, distraction, or flipped surfski. Carefully gauge how much risk you would be in if you lose your paddle. Some conditions may allow prone paddling if you still have your ski, while big enough conditions may make any kind of headway without a paddle difficult or impossible. Having a paddle leash also makes it much easier or just possible to use both hands temporarily for an occasional circumstance when needed such as adjusting/fixing something on your ski, or needing to call with a phone or radio.

wristleash.jpg

Combination Paddle/Leash Setup

Billy B's Leash System this is non-elastic leash system that secures the paddler and paddle to their surfski. It is easy to inspect for any wear or damage and employs no velcro.


Resources

  • Magnum PI (Season 4 Episode 1) “Home From The Sea” - Magnum falls out of his surfski after being hit by a boat wake, loses his ski and must float for hours in open sea (he was not using a leash). This shows an example of early surfskis (his surfski has a spec ski style nose) and was filmed long before leash use became common.
1)
See huli