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stories:epic_oahu_2010

Epic Oahu Storm Paddling

Brandon Nelson <brandon@…>
12/10/10 #9753

It’s like a typhoon outside! The sky is steadily flashing with lightning, the wind is ripping palm fronds from the trees and sending them flying, there are already foot-deep puddles in the streets and the rain is just now intensifying. In a word, it’s EPIC on Oahu!!!

We’ve been here since Monday, based in Lanikai on Oahu’s southeast shore, for a week of warm weather paddling. Our borrowed quiver includes SUP’s, a V10, an OC-1, two ocean kayaks and a 10’ kid’s boat. The first couple days were mellow, blue skies, high 70’s and basically perfect for getting in the groove after a long day of traveling and stocking up the kitchen. Then yesterday a north swell hit, and it was ON.

For those of you who’ve paddled in and around the Mokes out from Kailua and Lanikai, you’ll know exactly where I’m talking about. But imagine the channel in between the Mokes closing out with overhead surf. The waves peel around the islands, and form up again so they’re ride-able half-way to the beach. My friend Mike Scales, who I’ve raced Molokai with twice and who paddles here year round, said these conditions “might happen 3 times a year.”

Yesterday I followed Mike into the break beside the one-hump (right hand) Moke, trying to sneak through to the outside in between sets. We didn’t make it. I got peeled like an insect off the V10 by a one-story wall of whitewater, lost my hat, bottle, about lost my shorts. Quick re-mount after quick re-mount alternated with peel after peel off the boat. Floating next to my ski after the 3rd or 4th time, I looked over at Mike, an airline pilot for Hawaiian who (apparently) doesn’t rattle easily, but who was also off his boat for the 3rd or 4th time. I was a little surprised when he motioned with his hand “outward.” Persistent bastard.

I finally punched through, but looking over my shoulder just as I cleared the last peak I saw Mike had retreated back inside, in the relative protection of the islands and reef.

Now, being in the middle of the impact zone during Hawaii’s first major winter storm would be, for most, high-energy enough. But leave it to the good ol’ US Navy to add more excitement to our beat-down by hovering over with a Pave Hawk helicopter. (You know the CG helicopter a few of us have gotten up close and personal with in Bellingham? Well that thing would fit in the stern hatch of this freaking flying Titanic!!! I swear the tail rotor had to be 10’ across!)

Anyway, I made it outside finally, and had some time alone to pause and reflect. Outside the Mokes it’s a different world, like you might as well be 2000 miles from shore. It’s totally, totally AWESOME. All green water, that’s the nice thing. But the swell size of what’s rolling underneath you can just make your skin crawl when you’re used to Bellingham Bay. And extra-intimidating because to get back home, or even just back to where Mike was, requires either timing the “3 times a year” impact zone, or heading north for a couple miles to Flat Island. Let me tell you I was all too happy to go paddling for a couple miles.

I cruised along the outside of break after break, reef after reef, that Pave Hawk closely watching me and a few dozen surfers working every section of those reefs. For 20 minutes I caught sweet little wind-chop runners a tiny fraction of the size of the swells running parallel to my course. Eventually I crossed back inside the reef and paddled back up to the Mokes, where Mike was riding that wrap-around wave with a bunch of surfers.

You have to see to believe what an extreme vortex effect exists in the triangle between both Mokes and the area immediately toward shore. There were times when there would be 4 or 5 different breaking waves, 4-6’ tall, each traveling in completely different directions. Surfers on short boards would ride a wave until it clashes with another, then turn at the clash-moment and continue the surf on the other wave, going the opposite direction. On a surfski, it’s just a circus.

We’ll see what this storm and tomorrow bring, but on Saturday there’s a race right out of Lanikai. The women go at 10 and men at 11:30 so we’ll both get to race. The course is weather dependant, and I’m curious as heck to see what constitutes a course modification in this part of the world. I sincerely hope they don’t send us right between the Mokes! J

May the storm be with you,

Brandon, Heather and Hayden

Re: Epic Oahu Storm Paddling
Eric Grossman

12/10/10 #9754

Great story Brandon and great description of the slot between the Mokes, I am sure Alan, among others will also relate. I saw the forecast for the islands, massive rains and winds coming and with the north swell you should try Castles down at the far north end of Kailua beach - there will be lots of 3-5 ft long lefts and rights and likely plenty fun bumps maybe all the way out to bird shit island depending on how big the north swell.

Fun in the bay here the last few days but not the ono-licious juice of Hawaii kine surf! Have fun!
Eric

Re: Epic Oahu Storm Paddling
lori & beau whitehead

12/10/10 #9755

Brandon… my brother-in-law is right next door in Kailua. He is a surf/kite/sup photographer & Robby Naish's buddy.

Drop him an e-mail if you get bored… yeah right!

whitesellphoto@…

Beau Whitehead